Gas Stove & Oven Care
Is your oven not baking?
- Bad bake ignitor. You can't tell it's bad by looking at it--you must measure amperage. Just because it glows orange, that doesn't mean it's good. On round ignitors, look for a current draw of 2.6 to 2.8 amps. On flat ignitors, look for 3.2 to 3.6 amps. Insufficient current draw will not allow the gas valve to open. If unsure how to test, check this tech sheet.
- Bad valve. If ignitor checks out OK, remove power from oven, pull the two wires off the valve and ohm test. Should read two to five ohms. If open, replace valve.
- Pilot is out. Try reigniting the pilot. If it goes out again, check 1) gas supply (out of gas, crimped line, etc.), 2) pilot orifice clogged or dirty.
- Pilot flame not wrapping around thermocouple. Reposition the thermocouple bulb so the pilot flame wraps around it.
- If pilot is spark ignited and you're not getting spark to the pilot, replace the spark electrode, spark module and the ignition wire. These parts are inexpensive enough that it's not worth the trouble to just replace one, replace the entire ignition system as long as you're in there.
- If your broiler is not working, check the above steps with the broiler instead of the oven.
Is your oven not self-cleaning?
- Self clean latch bent or misaligned. Inspect for proper alignment to make sure that latch is contacting the latch switch.
- Defective self clean latch switch. Run continuity check.
- Bad function selector switch. Run continuity check on switch.
Is your gas oven not getting hot enough?
- Sluggish ignitor. A good ignitor will fire the oven in less than three minutes. If it takes longer than this, the ignitor is starting to go. Measure ignitor current draw as described above. As the ignitor gets sluggish, it takes longer for it to fire the burner as the oven cycles on and off while in use, thus lowering operating temperature.
- Oven door gasket ripped or torn.
Is your oven door stuck closed?
- Defective ERC. Check for error code in display. If error code given, check against manufacturer's code explanations in owner's manual or tech data sheet inside oven control panel.
- Misaligned self clean latch. Disassemble oven to manually free latch and realign or replace as needed.
Gas Stove Tops
Gas stove burners use two types of ignition: 1) direct spark ignition and 2) standing pilot ignition. Direct spark units make a ticking sound when the burner valve switch is turned to "ignite." Standing pilot units make no noise and have a pilot flame that burns all the time under the stove top panel.
Burner Won't Ignite
- Defective spark module. Check for proper 120v supply to ignitor. Ensure valve switch is also sending 120v signal to begin ignition. If no clicking sounds heard anywhere in the range, spark module is defective.
- Grounded electrode wire. Ignition wire insulation is worn and the spark is jumping to ground before reaching the electrode.
- Bad valve switch. Test valve switch continuity.
- If ticking sound is intermittent or muffled or seems to alternate between burners, then the spark module is defective.
- Worn (leaky) ignition wire. The insulation on the ignition wire going to the electrode(s) can wear thin in spots, causing the high voltage sparks to shunt to ground. This is usually accompanied by muffled ticking noises heard in odd places in the range. Inspect spark wire for wear spots in outer sheath.
- Stove electrical supply receptacle is reverse wired (hot side is neutral and neutral side is hot). Rewire receptacle observing correct polarity.
No Flame Control
- Defective burner gas valve.